August 17, 2015

night heron hide-out

There is a horse trail that runs through the forest bordering the Junco wetlands and town.  Walking this route always gets us into a quiet spot away from the wind and elements. We often see wild horses, Chimango Caracara, and get an unusual daylight sighting of the Black-Crowned night herons who sit like sentinals in the tree tops.

Raivo looks up at the sentinal-like herons on guard in the canopy.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Black-crowned night heron.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena
Chimango caracara
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena

August 14, 2015

frozen jewels

Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Diamond
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 13, 2015

beagle backyard

Under the old Navy pier at low tide.
Beagle Channel, Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Pearl & the red dinghy.
Beagle Channel, Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 12, 2015

winter teeth

The best part of stepping outside the boat every day is seeing these beautiful mountains.
Los Dientes de Navarino, Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

winter solstice commute

As we approached the Winter Soltice, Tormentina's morning commute to school came well before the sunrise. This meant getting the head-lamps on before stepping through the companion-way, crossing a raft of boats to get to the land, then making the 1.5 km trip (one-way) to get from the Club Naval de Yates to the center of town in the dark.  This girl is a trooper, going regardless of the weather in the rain, snow, or moonshine. 

The massive projects of road construction and new infrastructure in Puerto Williams meant no school bus running for most of the winter season.  She is in "Primero Basico" (1st Grade) at the Liceo Donald McIntyre Griffiths and is the only English-speaking & foreign student in her school.

Tormentina (age 6) on the companion-way steps getting on her "action suit" for her commute to school.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

the peak of navarino winter

Anasazi Girl tranformed into an igloo as the peak of winter arrived this season.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
James clearing the foredeck.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Ice forms in the Seno Lauta Harbour as the fjord (a mix of salt & fresh water) freezes over.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Expedition boats rafted together waiting for the next sailing season.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 8, 2015

snow & ice

Pearl in the frozen Junco wetlands.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Air bubbles.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Air & Nothofagus suspended in ice.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 6, 2015

martial sunrise

View of Argentina's Martial Range from Anasazi Girl.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

hand in hand

Hand-in-hand, headed home to Anasazi Girl.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

winter playground

Climbing the orange dinghy.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Harvesting icicles.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

teeth of navarino

Los Dientes de Navarino
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 5, 2015

yachting world, september 2015 issue

A few months ago (approximately a year after the actual events took place) I was finally able to write the story about our last passage from New Zealand.  The slimmed-down/edited version is published as an 8-page feature in the September 2015 issue of Yachting World (UK). This issue will be available on newsstands in the UK by the middle of August 2015 and an electronic version can be downloaded through the iTunes App Store shortly after.

Below is an excerpt from my original manuscript...

September 2015 issue Yachting World / Cruising Section
"Dismasted!" Yachting World (UK) September 2015 issue
Story & Photos by Somira Sao


 

-------------------

It was early morning aboard Anasazi Girl.  As I exhaled, I could see my breath curl like smoke through the cold air. I was lying with our three children in the starboard quarter berth.  James sat at the navigation station, looking at our latest GRIB file, updating charts, and watching the boat’s performance.  I could hear the sound of the ocean through the carbon hull as the boat surfed through the water.

I craned my neck so I could peek at the instruments.  Then I carefully shifted my weight so I could crawl out of the berth without waking anyone. Getting out of a space intended for one person, then stepping out over the ballast plumbing was tricky.  Gravity was pushing us to the lowest side of the berth, matching our angle of heel, with me at the bottom of the kid pile. The arrangement was uncomfortable, but it was the safest place to be on the boat. My intense love for my kids and the happiness felt having them close always worked to counter-balance any discomfort.

It was February 2014 and we were starting day 5 of our passage out of Auckland.  With 60 days of provisions on board, our plan was to sail non-stop to Lorient, France.  This was the first offshore passage for our one-year-old daughter Pearl. With many ocean miles under their belts, our daughter Tormentina (age 5) and son Raivo (age 3) were now well-seasoned sailors.  If we made it to Lorient, it would complete an east-bound family circumnavigation via the three Great Capes.

We were trying to maintain a maximum boat speed of 10-12 knots while staying on an efficient and comfortable East-bound course toward the Drake.  For this section of the Southern Ocean, the plan was simple – sail fast, sail smart, keep the lows on starboard, the highs on port, and above all else, do not get hurt or break anything!

As our position shifted southeast in latitude, we left our previous lives & the warm temperatures of New Zealand further behind. We had arrived in Auckland 14 months prior, in October 2012, after sailing from Cape Town, Fremantle, and Melbourne while I was pregnant.  Our time in New Zealand had been quite special.  For James and I, the place held a lot of personal history for us, going back before we had kids.

In 2007, James and I sailed Anasazi Girl across Cook Strait from Nelson to Wellington, then along the east coast of North Island from Wellington to Tauranga.  We spent several months in Auckland, working on the boat in the Viaduct, on the hard stand by the old America’s Cup sheds on Halsey Street. James was preparing for a non-stop Eastward passage from Auckland to Cape Town and it was during this period that we decided to start a family.

This recent stop in New Zealand, we had given birth to our third child and I finally said “Yes” seven years after he asked me.  We got married with a simple civil ceremony and celebrated with a memorable party afterwards.  We taught our kids how to swim at the Tepid Baths and lived a completely pedestrian lifestyle. Our kids ran wild & barefoot, tearing it up on the waterfront, wharfs, and docks on scooters and skateboards.  We made deep connections with friends, both old and new and also experienced America’s Cup madness as we cheered on Emirates Team New Zealand with the Kiwis for the 34th edition.

All of these things made our departure one of the hardest goodbyes ever leaving port.  With the addition of one more crew-member, we cleared out of the country.  Freed from the land, we were excited about making an epic voyage, and eager to see what would come next for our family....

-------------------

August 4, 2015

winter shoreline of the beagle

My kids at play on the shore of the Beagle Channel in winter.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Raivo cutting me a strand of kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera).
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Art in nature.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Crab on its way to the tide.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

ice on the river bank


Women at work.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Sending ice rafts downstream to the ocean.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Broken ice on the river bank.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

winter in the magellanic forest

Moody darkness of the winter wood.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Cold Beard
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Pearl on a snowy log.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Frozen mushroom hidden in bark.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Light in the shadows.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 3, 2015

frozen wetlands

The kid's favorite tree in the "Great Green Swamp"
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Frozen Junco Wetlands
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

ice canvas

Rock paintbrush & ice canvas.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)
Pearl on ice.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

hoar frost

Crystals  of hoar frost covering the surface of the Club Naval de Yates Micalvi.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

Hoar Frost.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

August 2, 2015

instagram feed

You can now follow Somira's photography via Instagram.  Search for somirasao, #SomiraSao or click on the badge on this page.

solid & liquid

The beautiful states of water.
 Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (junio de 2015)

July 29, 2015

beagle channel

View of the Cordillera Darwin & Cordillera Martial from the Beagle Channel.
Isla Navarino - CHILE / XII Región de Magallanes y de la Antártica Chilena (Mayo de 2015)